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Food writing
In-depth guides, comparisons and kitchen stories — not recipes, but the things that make a recipe work.
Fish falls apart because its muscle fibres are very short and the connective tissue holding them together is weak — so any overcooking pulls them apart. The fix: take it off the heat while the flesh still separates into flakes with slight resistance, at an internal temperature of 60–63°C.
5 min read
Graininess comes from the chickpea skins, which won’t purée, and from undercooking. The fix: a quarter teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda in the cooking water — it loosens the skins and breaks the chickpeas down, and the skins float up so you can lift them off. The chickpeas should crush under a press of your finger.
5 min read
Green vegetables fade because heat drives the air out of their cells and breaks down the chlorophyll — and acidity speeds this up. The fix: a quick blanch in salted boiling water, 2 minutes at most, then straight into iced water, with any acidity added at the end.
5 min read
Juice loses its flavour because oxidation starts the moment it is squeezed — air reacts with the enzymes, so the colour darkens and the taste changes. The fix: drink it within 20 minutes, or store it in a jar filled to the brim with a squeeze of lemon.
5 min read
The bloating comes from complex sugars (oligosaccharides) that your body has no enzyme to digest, so they reach the colon, where its bacteria ferment them and produce gas. The most effective fix: throwing away the soaking and cooking water — these sugars dissolve in water.
4 min read
Homemade yoghurt turns out runny for three reasons: the milk wasn't heated to 85°C (a step that restructures the proteins), the starter went in while the milk was too hot, so it died, and disturbing it while it ferments. The two critical temperatures: 85°C for heating and 43°C for adding the starter.
4 min read
The foam doesn’t form for three reasons: the grind isn’t fine enough, the heat is too high, or you started with hot water. The grind needs to be like powder, the heat very low, and the water cold from the start so the extraction is slow.
4 min read
Tea turns bitter for two reasons that work together: water that is too hot and steeping for longer than it needs — both draw out tannins, the source of bitterness and astringency. Black tea wants 95°C and 3–4 minutes, and green tea 75–80°C and two minutes at most.
4 min read
Pickles go soft because of enzymes that break down pectin, the substance that holds cell walls together. The fix comes down to three things: trim 2–3 mm off the blossom end of each cucumber, because that is where the enzyme is most concentrated; use filtered water and non-iodised salt; and add a vine leaf — its tannins inhibit the enzyme.
5 min read
Molasses and tahini separate because their densities are different: tahini is an oily suspension that floats on top of the heavy syrup. The fix: whisk the tahini on its own first until it is smooth, then add the molasses gradually while whisking constantly.
4 min read
The most important rule in Middle Eastern sweets: the syrup and the pastry must be at opposite temperatures — hot kunafa with cold syrup, or the other way round. Dryness comes from too little ghee, or from syrup poured on while both were hot, so it sat on top without soaking in.
4 min read
The skin won’t crisp because it is wet — and the water has to evaporate before any crisping can begin. The fix: dry-salting and chilling uncovered in the fridge for 4–24 hours, a seasoning that is dry, not wet, and heat that is high at the end of roasting.
4 min read