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Food writing
In-depth guides, comparisons and kitchen stories — not recipes, but the things that make a recipe work.
Sugar syrup determines the success of all Middle Eastern desserts, and its golden rule is inverse heat: hot dessert on cold syrup or vice versa. The ratio varies: 2 sugar to 1 water for Kunafa, 1:1 for Basbousa, and…
5 min read
Marinades don't actually penetrate meat the way we think — spice particles are large and stay on the surface at a depth of just one or two millimeters. The only thing that truly penetrates is salt, and because...
5 min read
Pasta absorbs sauce because starch continues to soak up liquid even after it is taken off the heat. The solution: cook it al dente, toss it with the sauce in the pan for just 1 minute, and serve immediately…
4 min read
A tray bake dries out because the steam escapes and nothing replaces it. The fix: cover with foil for the first two-thirds of the time and uncover at the end to brown, and add enough liquid to cover the bottom of the tray by 1 cm at least.
4 min read
The type of tray changes the result because it determines how quickly heat is transferred to the base. A dark metal tray absorbs more heat, so the bottom browns faster, while glass heats slowly but holds on to its heat — so lower the oven by 15°C when you use it.
4 min read
Food turns out flat because it lacks a balance between the five tastes: salty, sweet, sour, bitter and umami. The two most often missing in home cooking are acidity and umami — and a squeeze of lemon or a spoonful of browned tomato paste transforms the whole dish.
5 min read
Most vegetables need a quick blanch before freezing to deactivate their enzymes — without that step they lose their colour, flavour and texture within just two months. The exceptions that freeze raw, without blanching, are chopped molokhia, onions, chopped peppers, tomatoes and herbs.
5 min read
The difference isn’t in the rice and lentils — it’s in the three sauces: the tomato sauce (which has to be tangy and concentrated), the da’a (a thin sauce of vinegar, garlic and cumin) and the chilli sauce. And in slow-fried onions, which bring the crunch and the sweetness.
4 min read
The main difference is hydration — bakeries use a much softer dough than home bakers do. A dough that gives a light, airy texture has a hydration of 60–65% (600–650 ml of liquid per kilo of flour), and it looks a little sticky, which is normal.
4 min read
A pressure cooker raises the pressure inside it, so the boiling point of water reaches 120°C instead of 100°C — and that higher temperature cuts the cooking time to roughly a quarter. It also preserves more vitamins, because the cooking time is shorter and there is less water.
4 min read
Fish falls apart because its muscle fibres are very short and the connective tissue holding them together is weak — so any overcooking pulls them apart. The fix: take it off the heat while the flesh still separates into flakes with slight resistance, at an internal temperature of 60–63°C.
5 min read
Graininess comes from the chickpea skins, which won’t purée, and from undercooking. The fix: a quarter teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda in the cooking water — it loosens the skins and breaks the chickpeas down, and the skins float up so you can lift them off. The chickpeas should crush under a press of your finger.
5 min read